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North York Moors

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  • North York Moors

Quick Overview

This is the first fully dedicated bouldering guide to the whole of the North York Moors and its east coast. With over 2000 problems to suit all abilities, we have packed this guide full of colour photos and topos to showcase this secret and stunning landscape. The guide contains: Established popular venues in the west, with the inclusion of more remote secluded hidden valleys. Venues deep in the heart of the Moors, where sheep roam free on the purple blanket of heather that leads to an abundance of blocks and crags looking out on the green valleys below. Eastern areas involving a journey back in time to a world of steam trains and ancient wooded boulders. The stunning Jurassic landscape of coastal bouldering beside clear blue seas. The North York Moors has many tales to tell of dreamers, explorers and smugglers. This guide hopes to capture the spirit of this beautiful historic area.

The areas in this guide are split into three areas, western, central, eastern and coastal. The Western Edges The most popular area of the North York Moors due to its easy access for the local population of Teesside, accessibility from the gritstone edges of Yorkshire to the west and The Peak District further south. There is a rich history connected with this western area, where several ground-breaking ascents have been made over the years. Recent development have uncovered several new venues, some giving a bouldering aspect to existing traditional crags. There are well known areas, such as Scugdale, The Wainstones, Captain Cook’s and Ingleby Boulders, along with other lesser known, though worthy venues. Even though this western area is more popular compared to further east, some venues still have an isolated feel and the potential for further exploration.

Venues included in the western area are: Low Water Stones, High Crag, Kay Nest, Tranmire Rocks, Earthworks Rocks, Wainstones and Garfit Quarry, Cold Moor, Thimbleby Crag, Scugdale, Ingleby Incline, Park Nab and NOS Boulder, Captain Cook’s and Roseberry Topping. Also brief mentions of other outcrops like Apple Tree Rocks, Tarn Hole, Todd Intake, Collar Ridge, Badger Stone and Highcliff Nab.

The Central Section The majority of bouldering in this area is on or around the spectacular Blakey Ridge, which is surrounded by the wonderful valleys of Farndale, Fryup Dale, Rosedale, Danby Dale and Westerdale. Most of the venues are located on the edges below the exposed heather moorland and all have a different panoramic aspect of the stunning valleys below. Many of the venues have a short walk-in from the parking, making it possible to enjoy more than one in a day. The area also includes the only limestone bouldering venue on the North York Moors, the hidden quarry of Ravenswick, a good dry bet in wet weather. Beware! It's dark world of painful eliminates that you can easily get obsessed with. Venues included in the central area are: Ravenswick Quarry, Duck and The Inbetweeners, Oak Crag, Petergate Quarry, Thorgill Crag, The Meadow, Middle Ridge Crag, Rosedale Head, Round Crag, Northdale, Dale Head, Clemitt’s, Camp Hill, The Finkelstones and Castleton Quarries, with a small mention of the edges in Farndale.

Eastern and Coastal Area Although there's not a huge amount of bouldering on this eastern side of the moors there's a good and diverse variety of venues. This ranges from the magical Arncliffe Woods in the Esk Valley to the obscure pinnacles of The Bridestones just outside Dalby Forest and all the way over to the coastal bouldering of Smuggler’s Terrace high above the North Sea. Most of the venues have only recently been discovered and many are not well known as a result, but a visit in good bouldering conditions or a nice sunny day can rival a trip to more popular areas further west. This area is also home to the largest boulders on the moors, which are 'The Two Sisters' of Stoupe Brow, one of which goes by the name of ‘Barry’. Venues included in the eastern area are: The Bridestones, Levisham, Hunt House and Blawath Crag, Glaisdale Head, Arncliffe Woods and Limber Hill. Venues included in the coastal area are: Cloughton Wyke, Smuggler’s Terrace, Stoupe Brow and Boulby, with a mention of the tricky to access Rocky Point.

Read a review from Three Rock Books author Dave Flanagan Click Here